From the distance of Tokyo, the Tohoku earthquake, tsunami and nuclear meltdown now feel like a long time ago. Similarly, tomorrow’s 10 year anniversary seems especially significant. Massive rebuilding has been undertaken, train services are running again and more of the former exclusion zone is being re-opened.
But again, that’s looking at it from the distance of Tokyo, where for most people, the only real problems during the horrors of that disaster were occasional power cuts and a shortage of certain foodstuffs. Of course there were falsehoods galore, unsubstantiated rumours spread about the danger of radiation, plus some disgracefully sensationalist headlines — a depressingly familiar pattern that we’ve once again been subjected to during the current pandemic. None of that, however, was life-threatening, or indeed especially life-changing.
The people directly affected by those events a decade ago, on the other hand, must feel very differently. I have no idea how one gets over such a thing, or indeed if it’s even possible to do so. Hopefully time really is the great healer, and in that respect, maybe, just maybe, 10 years down the line it is a little easier. I honestly don’t know.
What I do know is that visiting the nuclear power plant check point and then the city of Kesennuma a full 8 months after the earthquake and tsunami hit was overwhelming to say the least. I thought I was prepared for what I would see, but I wasn’t. The sheer scale and staggering levels of destruction were simply beyond comprehension. And that was after seeing countless photos and many hours of footage. A clear indication of how impossible it really is to imagine how those caught up in it felt, and indeed still feel today.
Yet despite all that, what was almost as striking as the wreckage was the resilience of those who lived there. Lives that in an instant had been denied the certainties of the past, now seemed imbued with some sort of hope for the future — or at the very least a strong sense of getting up and getting on. Businesses were reopening, people stopped to talk and youngsters made their way to school once again. The scenery that acted as a backdrop to those stories was now very different of course, but the sense of purpose clearly remained the same. Sights that were as incongruous as they were encouraging, and humbling in the extreme.
Now, well over 9 years since I visited, and 10 years since those devastating events, the small set of images I brought back to Tokyo are filled with these memories. So for what they are worth, here they are. Documents of what I saw (and heard), but at the same time never experienced.
LAObserver says
It is interesting that in the west, most persons remember only the catastrophic tsunami and its effects. But the earthquake a few minutes before the waves hit was one of the largest ever recorded in human history. Both were absolutely staggering in their magnitudes.
Lee says
That’s a good point. Never really thought about that before. But yeah, both were truly staggering. Then there was the meltdown on top of all that…
Morgan says
These are very strong images that are even more heartbreaking with the recording. I’m pleased you included the last one to show signs of recovery. Thank you.
Lee says
Thanks a lot, and you are very welcome. It did seem important to include that. A bit of normality amidst all the devastation.
ellen says
I can’t believe it’s already 10 years……… I pray all those affected have found some peace in their lives.
Lee says
Yes, 10 years have passed already. Often doesn’t feel that long at all. But yeah, one can only hope so…
Matthias says
The days after the catastrophe ten years ago were also the days when I found TokyoTimes – because I thought there must be a japanese newspaper with that name. I thought your pictures from the Mount Takao fire-walking festival 48 hours after the earthquake were so very moving and impressive. Thank you for all the insights.
Lee says
That’s interesting to hear. I remember that festival well. It was a very unusual atmosphere, but it was definitely the right reason to go ahead. Think it helped a lot of people.
You are very welcome, and thank you for sticking around. That’s a long time.
john says
Surreal images from a war zone, rendered more poignant by the seeming tranquil skies and reflections on the water.
The effects of salt water on car bodywork and diesel generators can not be underestimated, or in the case of lives, understood.
The clean up goes on, ten years later?
Lee says
Yeah, those reflections, the lovely weather and the calm gave it a very surreal atmosphere. In some respects it made it even harder to comprehend. The start of a beautiful, calm day surrounded by the debris of a day that was anything but…
Not sure about the clean up, but certainly the rebuilding goes on. And more of the exclusion zone is reopening, although it’s hard to see a lot of people going back.
cdilla says
That is a nice commentary piece to accompany your very sobering set of photographs. The sound track is a strong enhancer. A great addition to photographs such as these.
Because I watch a lot of NHK programs I see features on the earthquake/tsunami/nuclear hit regions every week and have watched areas and lives being rebuilt ever so slowly over the past decade. The disbelief at the original scenes, the unbearable grief of lone family survivors, the reneging of government promises, the generosity of strangers, the weaseling of corporations and the huge community efforts all playing out together.
Yesterday I saw a project that is salvaging history from the decayed homes that will soon be pulled down in the shadow of the nuclear plant. One book they found was promoting the nuclear plant with illustrated visions of the future and a cartoon plant with strong arms proclaiming it was earthquake proof. There was also a painting of the coastline before the nuclear plant that the owner said she used to look at to remind her of what it was like where she played as a child.
Last week I watched people recounting stories of how they had seen the ghosts of the departed victims of the tsunami, and heard about one man’s continuing project to plant cherry trees along a hundred miles of coastline at the level the waters reached so no-one would forget.
Lee says
Thank you. Very good to hear. It wasn’t easy to write. Glad the addition of sound worked as well.
Yes, so many stories. So many we will never get to hear as well…
Bernadette Loftus says
The picture with moved house looks like it came straight out of The Wizard of Oz.
Lee says
I know eh? Seeing something like that was very hard to comprehend.
Richard says
One never gets over a catastrophe like The Triple Disaster. The best one can do is to find ways to rebuild one’s life into something meaningful and satisfying while holding the memories of the people and a life lost in reverence. There are still thousands of people living in so called temporary housing. And many, many others still struggling with their profound sense of loss. Much more ongoing help is needed.
Lee says
Yes, that’s very true. There’s no one size fits all approach to deal with such things as well.
The temporary housing issue really is a disgrace, especially when you think about all the money that has, and the more that will be poured into the Olympics. Imagine what genuine good that money could have done, and how transformative it could have been, but instead it has been squandered on a monstrously expensive vanity project…
Richard says
I think Abe, et al really wanted these displaced people to somehow magically meld seamlessly back into society without having to invest the time, energy, and money needed to really assist them. I agree with you about the Olympics. Remember Abe said in English, ‘Everything is under control’ during the bid to get the Olympics. What a lie that was! Now with the pandemic the government going ahead with the Olympics is even more troubling. Even when 70+% of the population does not want the games to go on Suga, et al are forging ahead.
Lee says
Yeah, the whole thing is an absolute mess. I thoroughly enjoy the Olympics, but it didn’t feel like the right time at all for Tokyo to bid for it. And of course now it’s an even bigger mess. No foreign spectators is the option being touted now, but while a safer option, it’d be a weird event with only home support. But as you said, they keep forging ahead…