Just like everywhere else in the world, Tokyo has an ever-growing number of restaurant/bar/coffee shop chains that attempt to slowly suck the life out of the place by making it another branded, homogenous mass. Luckily, however, the city retains an enormous amount of privately owned establishments; so many in fact that even small pockets of the capital would take several lifetimes (not to mention livers) to fully explore.
Yet despite this vast and varied selection, Iseya, in Kichijoji, still manages to stand out.
It was originally opened 84 years ago as a butchers, but in 1958 the business was converted into its present form, a yakitori-ya. A date that not only marks its inception, but conceivably the last time it had any kind of construction work done, or enjoyed a good clean.
An approach that, in our increasingly sterile, indistinguishable world, makes it all the more special. There are no airs and graces. No unnecessary expectations. And definitely no requirements to hold back. It’s a place where people simply go to eat, drink and invariably make merry.
After this month, however, it’ll be no more — at least not in its current state — as it is set to be rebuilt. A decision presumably made in the name of progress, or maybe even health and safety. But whatever the reason, it’s sadly time to pour one last drink.
Then when everyone has had their fill.
Stumble out.
And say sayonara, Iseya.
Meow • Totoro Times says
It kind of reminds me a similar looking bar/restaurant around Ebisu station. The place looks terribly old but… more importantly… the beer is FREE! 🙂
Lee says
Free?! Iseya is cheap, but not that cheap.
Hans ter Horst says
Lee, this kind of photo shoots are what sets this blog apart from the many other Tokyo based blogs; love it!
Lee says
Blimey, thank you very much. That’s really kind of you.
I was going to just post the first picture as that’s my favourite, but a photo story of sorts seemed more appropriate. Glad you enjoyed the result.
Hans ter Horst says
Too bad it is closing; these is really the scruffy places I have come to enjoy in Tokyo (not the sterile, boring places :-)) Closing as of the start of June?
Lee says
Yeah, it is a shame. No doubt about it. Such places sadly won’t be around forever.
Nah, June I heard. So my guess is the end of the month.
john says
A “refit” but not for want of customers it seems. I wonder what the replacement will be?
I like the smoother (slow shutter) look of the last few, though imagine the ‘live entertainment’ of a precariously balanced man with a camera in the first.
Lee says
No, it’s always super busy. A new modern version might not be anything like as popular. It’s grottiness is arguably what people go for. A prime location though. Apartments above perhaps?
Interesting to hear you like the look of the last few. They certainly have that end of an evening feel to them. Happy to say there was no balancing involved in the others. At that stage of proceedings, I was in no state to be trying anything as taxing as balancing. Let alone in a precarious manner!
Marc T says
This place reminds me of a little yakitori-ya that is just east of Shinjuku station. You need to cross over the overhead walkway, down a little street then a doorway that leads to stairs taking you down 2-3 flights to the place. If you don’t know it is there, you don’t know it’s there! Nothing fancy, well worn. I think you actually pass the kitchen on the way down.
Lee says
There must be so many great little places like that. Many of which, like you say, you’d never even know are there.
Don says
Fantastic series!
Lee says
Thanks a lot Don!
robashito says
…places like this is what I really miss about Japan. Life is too short….put a damn smile and cheer the fuck up! 🙂
Lee says
Yeah, when it comes to smile ratio, Iseya takes some beating.
robashito says
no way… this is in Kichijoji? This was one of my stomping grounds as a kid since we lived only a few stations away. It’s a fantastic area and has quite a variety of areas. I remember this Reggae bar, small as ones bathroom, that would spark it up freely and we delinquents would venture out to Inokashira Park for a walk. Good times!
Lee says
It is. I dare say a lot has changed since then, but it’s pretty certain Iseya hasn’t.
Revenant says
Thanks Lee. I remember going to this place quite a bit after Japanese classes at a nearby language school back in the nineties. It had such an earthy atmosphere. Great pics
Lee says
Cheers! You’ll be pleased to know it hasn’t changed a bit, although that’s probably clear from the photos. Sadly it’s hard to imagine they’ll be able to recreate anything like the same atmosphere in the new place…
Dosanko says
I’m always amazed at how a good camera man and story teller can make a place look romatic. Then again, under the influence of love, a dirty hovel is certainly more entertaining than a shmick establishment.
However, I’ve been to plenty old but not run down or dirty eateries. When they are well kept, it’s all the more impressive and enjoyable and romantic. I don’t know if you can find such places in Tokyo though. The inaka is where you’d have to go – much better food too!
Hans ter Horst says
Just got back from having dinner in ISEYA, cheers for the tip. Great place, deliciously dirty and great food. Had to queue up for a bit as the place was packed at 16:30. I have visited several of this kind of places in Sendai as my father in law used to live there during the week and my wife and I visited all his old hangouts and I love these places!
Lee says
Excellent. Glad you enjoyed it. Even better you got to experience the place before it’s gone forever. Did you take any photos there?
Hans ter Horst says
Yes, I had brought my DSLR yesterday and a 20mm lens; I managed to stitch several of the photos to create the wide overview that I do like for this kind of work. I haven’t had time to prepare any blog posts yet, but I uploaded the ones I like to my G+ folder which is public and should be visible to all: https://plus.google.com/photos/115355372800233634836/albums/5755868280136235713
If you have G+ account, please +1 and comment where appropriate 🙂
Lee says
Good stuff. I’ll have a proper look when I get home later.
Hans ter Horst says
You can use this link instead: http://monochrome.me.uk/news/?p=160
Jason says
Lee,
Great post and photos! JD sent me the link—brought back many memories, though, as I used to live a minute walk from the smaller original shop nearby (now, sadly gone—-but re-opened I’ve heard), often went to that one on many, many nights—but spent lots of time in both. Easily spent 4 or 5 nights a week standing on the sidewalk eating raw liver and yakitori, drinking way too much shochu and beer, and shooting the shit with the guys who seemed to have a superhuman ability to cook all those sticks and keep up with the pace while maintaining a conversation. Fucking loved, loved Iseya. Not the best yakitori to be sure, but an institution! My wife’s parents even used to go on dates at both locations!
Gutted to hear that the Inokashira one set to be rebuilt as well, especially before we can get back to go one last time before it’s done—but your photos a great reminder of what was..
Thanks!!
Lee says
Cheers, Jason.
We went at just the right time, as people are now forming huge queues to get their last Iseya fix before it goes.
Glad to hear the photos provided a good reminder.
zoglog says
Oh man… this saddens me greatly if I’m remembering the same place….. I always love going to kichijoji whenever I visit japan for menchi katsu and this place.
zoglog says
Yup same place after looking at pictures…. man the 80 yen yakitori was awesome. Man I wold love some smilar recommendations in tokyo and osaka. Shinjuku stands always seem to be a rip-off in piss alley
Lee says
Yeah, has to be the same yakitori-ya. Not many places like Iseya. Let alone in one area.
As for similar places, with similar prices, that’s a tough call…
zoglog says
Bummer . Only similar place I’ve ever found was wandering Kyoto and finding some locals hole in the wall. Thanks for the post, those photos brought back some good memories.