There are numerous reasons to seek out old Tokyo bars run by equally old people. The often similarly ageing decor is one thing, as is the invariably relaxed and carefree vibe, but perhaps most of all it’s the wealth of stories one hears that makes them truly memorable. Tales from an incredibly long life lived on the city’s far western reaches for example, or the culinary adventures of a lovely fella who left home at 14 so he could train to be a French chef. All unique and genuinely enriching elements of such evenings, and the hours spent in the little bar below were no different.
The clutter on display suggested it had been there for decades, but the mama-san only opened for business 10 years ago. Deciding, at the then sprightly young age of 73, that she needed somewhere small. And small it is, with space for 6 people at the most — allowing her to comfortably cook, serve drinks and still have time for a well earned sit down and cigarette.
All of which is rather different from her younger days. Starting out as a company salesperson of sorts, she enjoyed several business trips to Asia and beyond, but ultimately it wasn’t really her thing, so she made a switch to the entertainment industry. A move that culminated in her running a club in Shibuya, where the clientele, and the many women who looked after them, had to to be managed. This turned out to be something of a high point of sorts, as after that she moved to progressively smaller establishments, in progressively more suburban locations, resulting, many decades later, in where she is now. A place where she’s still happy, still running a tight ship, and despite disagreements with her truly enormous cat, still very much her own boss.
Linda says
Ok, so strictly speaking, she didn’t start running a tiny bar till she was 73? So theoretically, I could grow up to be an old lady running a tiny Tokyo bar without ever having been a young or middle-aged lady running a tiny Tokyo bar? I definitely think I could accumulate that much clutter in ten years, so I’ve got that going for me. I can still dream!
Ron says
haha, you need to find an enormous cat first!!
Lee says
Hmm, I fear we may be getting into tricky territory here. Theoretically yes, but then ethically I’m not so sure. Starting out with your own bar as an old lady could well upset all the old ladies who have been running bars since they were young ladies. More research needed I think. And as Ron says, an enormous cat may need to be sourced as well!
Linda says
Perhaps I could find an old lady who is looking for a successor to take over her tiny bar. I know this is a big problem for some old businesses in Japan these days, right?
And don’t worry, finding a cat is in my area of expertise 😉
Lee says
Ah, there we go, that could well be the plan. Bit of training, acquire a cat and you’d be sorted!
Jenn says
What a great story. I love the enormous cat! 🙂
Lee says
She has certainly had an interesting life, that’s for sure. I dare say her cat has too!
cdilla says
It really is nice to hear just a smidge of backstory. I like that there is an ecosystem of sorts for people who venture into the hostess industry that features niches for people as they get older. A lady opening a very small bar with it’s own small band of regulars features a lot on the periphery of the Japanese novels I read, and films and dramas like Midnight Diner. It’s good to see and hear that those depictions do echo real life.
An on another note, that is so Vienna.
https://tinyurl.com/yd7chryj
john says
Oh, Vienna! (might mean nothing to you) :O)
cdilla says
Not their finest. Much preferred “Yound Savage” Then again they never recovered from the loss of Mr Foxx (IMHO of course :-))
Lee says
Never really got into Ultravox, although nowadays it’s always nice to hear Vienna. It makes me smile, bit not as much as that photo of Rigsby!
Yeah, I can happily say that aspect of Japanese culture is very real. It’s a very important aspect too when you see and hear how much the regulars get out of such places. A lot of lives are definitely made a lot more enjoyable because of them.
john says
After the clock watching ‘fearful symmetry’ of your last image, here’s the tyger!
cdilla says
Ultravox and William Blake! I love the cultural references Lee’s photographs draw out of his viewers.
If you ever run an exhibition, Lee, be sure to have the gallery put a small whiteboard for viewers to leave messages.
Lee says
I like that, especially the ‘fearful symmetry’. Perfect in so many ways.
I thoroughly enjoy it too. It’s always interesting to read what other people see, or get out of certain photos. I’m also lucky that I not only get comments, but also very intelligent ones.
Exhibitions here always have a visitors book, but a whiteboard would be a lovely approach. Open to very public abuse of course, but it’d definitely be a risk worth taking.
Paul Hédouin says
I could spend hours and hours in a tiny and comfy place like this.
Lee says
Likewise. And happy to say that’s exactly what we did here. Bit of a hangover the next day, but it was more than worth it.