Tokyo regenerates at a frightening pace, and yet in older — or more neglected — parts of the city, it can often feel like time has stood still. Something that’s definitely the case with this little bar and eatery.
Run by its 78-year-old owner, the furnishings clearly haven’t changed all that much in the decades they have both been there. A staggering 46 years to be exact.
Brought up in Okayama, the mama-san moved east to Tokyo as a young woman, and, after first living in Shinjuku, she later relocated to the suburbs — opening and then running the bar with her late husband. Something she still does today. Five nights a week. 5pm to 11:30 or so. Cooking, serving and generally being lovely.
A routine she intends to continue for the foreseeable future, or for at least as long as her health holds out. Ruefully admitting that it’s talking to customers that keeps her going, and when she can’t do it any longer, a massive part of her life will be lost. As indeed will the bar itself, which will be unceremoniously shuttered up like many other businesses on the same street. And on countless other streets all over the city.
Bernadette says
I so regret not visiting bars like this when I was in Tokyo. I wanted to so much but never had the nerve. They seemed so intimidating! Thanks for letting me see them through your photos!
Lee says
They are certainly fascinating little places. But places that sadly won’t last forever…
I’m not that brave myself. Never go alone. Always with a pal!
KenC says
When I visit places like this with Japanese friends I always get a great welcome but like most of the other people who have responded I would be nervous about trying a new one alone.
Lee says
Yeah, it’s a weird one, isn’t it? Experience says there’s no reason at all to be apprehensive, and yet it’s so hard not to be…
tatsurou says
Where can we find this lovely place?
Lee says
It’s near Hitotsubashigakuen Station on the Seibu Line. Will have to go back to get the exact location as we walked about a fair bit before finding it. But no more than 5 mins away.
Amelia says
Please do! I would like to drop by that place in the near future! Thank you!
winnie says
Lovely pictures!
I don’t dare to go in too by myself. I would love to go in if my family or friend can accompany me.
Lee says
Thanks. It’s definitely worth the effort. A new experience each and every time.
Jaska says
Surely there shouldn’t be anything to be afraid of going in to such an eatery. It’s not as if the cook of establishment is going to make a dinner out of you right? Right?
Lee says
No, that’s very true. Or at least I hope so!
Seriously though there really isn’t anything to be afraid of. Not in the slightest. And yet I always feel a little apprehensive before entering. Why I can’t really say, although it probably has a lot to do with not knowing what it’s like on the inside, and how those inside will react.
Norbert Woehnl says
Lovely shots, Lee, and great storytelling as usual. The contrasty b&w looks fantastic on this set.
Given that my wife is also from Okayama, this might be one excellent point to strike up a conversation – if we can find that particular place next time we come to Tokyo.
But I guess, navigating the side alleys will lead us to many a place like this, as you have shown in a couple of your previous posts.
Lee says
Thank you very much!
Yes, I dare say you’d be greeted like long lost relatives. I’m sure she’d have plenty of things to you ask you both about her old hometown. But yeah, if it wasn’t this one, you’d have no trouble at all finding another.
Hans ter Horst says
Amazing place, would love to go there myself!
Lee says
It was. She’s struggling with a bad back, so not sure how long she’ll continue. Hopefully for another few years though.
June says
What did you eat there? and how was it?
Lee says
We had sashimi. Tempura. Katsu. Tofu. Oh, and sausages. Pretty much everything on the ‘today’s recommendation’ menu, which I suspect was the whole menu!
And I’m happy to say that everything was top notch. Not to mention cheap.
ex-expat says
Wow! Wonder if she started out in pre-war Shinjuku, when it was considered in the boonies of Tokyo? Bet she’s got some tales to tell.
Lee says
An age wasn’t mentioned, but I got the impression she was a young woman rather than young girl when she moved to Tokyo, so the 1950s perhaps? But either way, you are right, she must have some real tales to tell. I can’t even begin to imagine the changes she must have seen…
Don says
I’ve been out of touch lately, so this was a warm and beautiful welcome back to the site. Thanks as always, Lee! 😀
Lee says
You are welcome! Glad to hear you liked it.
Valerie says
Lovely pictures. I love so many things in Tokyo but this nostalgic atmospheres are my favorites. Seems we have this in commun actually. Although I don’t photograph them yet. Well, I’m also looking for a lunch and photography partner to enjoy this type of small shops. Definitely, your blog is added to my favorites!
Lee says
Thank you!
Yeah, they are fascinating places to visit, and photograph. Not to mention that if they don’t quite live up to your expectations, you still get to sit down and have a few beers, which is never a bad thing.
Ryo says
Hi!
I just found this post by the chance. Very nice photographs indeed!
I am living in Tokyo and love to visit this place very much! Do you know the name of this place?
Lee says
Thanks.
No, I don’t. Sorry. But it’s in Hitotsubashigakuen. If you want a map I can probably find it again in street view.
Ryo says
Hi Lee, thanks for your reply! To be honest I am very keen to know the place and I actually try to find it by myself it was very difficult since i haven’t been there so if you could find it in street view that would be very kind. Thank you so much.
Lee says
No problem.
The street I think it’s on isn’t on Google maps. Or at least not all of it is. And without seeing it, I can’t be sure where it is. Especially so as I have no idea what it’s called. Sadly had this problem a few times when trying to re-find bars. The streets being so narrow obviously restricts where the car can go.
Tell you what though, the next time I’m in the area, I’ll go and check the area I think it’s in, and if I’m right, I’ll drop a pin on my map. Then I’ll be able to give you the location.
Ryo says
Hey Lee,
Thanka so much and sorry if I was pressuring you in any ways. This old izakaya seems very nice and warm for having sake. I will be keep checking your blog!
Thanks
Lee says
Nah, not at all. A mate and I have started making a map of all the places we have visited. Why on earth we didn’t just drop pins on the map when we found somewhere good I don’t know. Well, I do know, it was all the beer…
But places like this are now causing a real problem, as Google Maps isn’t the best once you get off the wider roads. So there are a lot of gaps. Bars we want to mark, but can’t. At least not virtually. So the only way will be to do a return visit. An endeavour that certainly won’t be a chore. So we will be back. And when we are, I’ll get you that location.
Ryo says
Hey Lee,
Thanks for the reply and again sorry for my late reply. I found this blog by chance when I was searching for the pictures of old bar in Tokyo. And I just loved this photo and place in photo that makes me want to visit there.
I also use google maps when I want to pin the place and I usually search the name or the address of the favorite place so you can mark the exact place. I don’t know where you live now (Tokyo?) but if you could find out I really appreciate if you update the information here again:-)
Thanks a lot.
Ryo