Food and Drink

Seeing rice crackers made using time-honoured techniques, in suitably traditional settings, is nice to say the least. Better still, however, is the aroma, as despite their simplicity, the resultant snacks smell absolutely sensational.

Many traditional shops in Tokyo open out onto the street — a lovely communal element that further cements their ties to the local neighbourhood. In older areas of the city, a surprising number of them still survive too, although there can’t be many that boast a working, and still in use water pump like the fishmonger’s below. A feature that has presumably been in place since the shop opened for business back in 1935.

A scene from the past with several clear hints at the present.

Friendly little bars are wonderful escapes wherever one happens to be. Each and every one offering a welcome chance to drink, unwind and briefly forget about all that’s going on in the wider world. And when they are as genuinely appealing as this place from the outside.

As well as incredibly calming the moment the door opens on the inside.

Then the only thing left to worry about is how difficult it’s going to be to leave.

The cramped seating area isn’t exactly the comfiest, and the toilet facilities are positively archaic, but this old Tokyo ramen restaurant is pretty much perfect. Great food, decades of clutter and a genuine sense of warmth the moment one walks in.

Some Japanese drunks prefer to ease into unconsciousness when sat with friends, or somewhat less safely in a city side street wearing little more than a slip. Others, however, rather more boldly opt for busy train stations, during late night peak time, when predictably there are police about.