Food and Drink

Despite the red light, these fellas were after nothing more unseemly than a quick sit down and some sustenance. But as well as food, they obviously like a bit of atmosphere; something this alleyway has in abundance. So much in fact that it almost feels like another world when compared to the chain restaurant clogged main street a mere few metres away.

These two colourful characters may well have been incredibly drunk by mid-afternoon, but they are almost certainly not what one would call lightweights. Quite the opposite in fact, as the bars in this alleyway — and indeed the surrounding area — are open from late, til very late; meaning that more than likely they had been knocking back the booze since the night before. An impressive feat that makes their inebriated state simply expected, rather than anything even approaching a surprise.

Away from the bright lights and busy streets, Tokyo boasts a huge number of local bars, many of which are run by senior citizens. Fascinating, often grubby little places that are filled with as much character as their unflagging and friendly hosts.

And this small bar and eatery is no different, along with the added bonus of a design that blurs the ideas of inside and outside.

But age can, at times, catch up. And with all the serving and cooking that had to be done, the master began to visibly wilt.

Determined not to be defeated, however, he sneaked in a few naps during the occasional downtime.

Resulting in him still going strong when we were looking at getting the last train.

The bar may well have been a grubby one, and the bib more than a bit makeshift, but the affection between these two was there for all to see.

Open for over 30 years, this small, cluttered little bar is a wonderfully relaxed place run by the mama-san until late evening, then her son till much later. An establishment so relaxed in fact that a good-sized rat that ran along a shelf behind my pal and I, caused only the briefest of distractions — a nod of recognition basically. Then, just as before, the drinking and conviviality continued on.

No frills. Clearly no fun either. Just someone’s lunch delivered with considerable skill and quiet efficiency.