Photography

Old, small and decidedly less than meticulously cleaned Tokyo bars have featured on these pages before, but arguably none look quite as grubby as this one. With the wear, tear and grime of all its 30 years on display, it was packed full of details despite its almost cupboard-like dimensions.

Elements that were added to by the endearingly shy demeanour of the owner. A man who has run the little place on his own for the entirety of those 3 decades, and when not serving drinks or grilling food, he simply sits and reads or listens to his retro portable radio.

All of which really did make it a bar like no other.

Back in the summer I posted a series of photos from Tsuruhashi, Osaka’s Korea town — a truly fascinating place in regards both its looks and history. So on a recent return to Japan’s second city, another wander round the area’s unique, often labyrinth-like market was a must. A visit made all the more interesting this time with more knowledge about what works photographically, as well as the sight of a few, already quite familiar faces.

Old and broken vending machines have featured on these pages before. There’s just something so incredibly appealing about them with their retro looks and quiet dignity — standing, as they still do, despite destined to never dispense again.

As such, it was the beautifully coloured Sapporo beer machine that caught my eye, but then the shop itself seemed to have a similar kind of feel. Lovely to look at still, but long since closed, it too stands empty and quiet.

Japan may well have loads of fancy, well stocked department stores, but thankfully it also boasts a huge number of fabulously dated old businesses to balance things out a bit. So many in fact that the photos below were all taken very recently.

That said, the sad truth is that the vast majority will only last as long as those who own them, but for now for at least these shops are there to be seen and enjoyed, as we will likely never see their kind again.

The lights and iconic signboards of Osaka’s Dotonbori district are well documented, but personally, it’s the rather less well known after dark sides of the city that appeal. Quiet corners and little bars that arguably speak more about the lives and times of those who live there.

So here then is a set of scenes from some nocturnal wanders and drinks a couple of weeks ago. Photos that go nicely with my recently posted daytime series of people and similarly local places.

The dilapidated barber shop on the corner was what initially caught our attention. Old school places like that are always a treat, but it’s rare to see one so faded and forlorn looking. However, having spent the morning shivering through the first genuinely wintery weather of the year, the coffee shop next door turned out to be the real find of our day.

In business for 51 years and run by the same woman the whole time, it was a warm refuge from the cold in both temperature and the welcome we received. A place that my friend and I felt completely at home in the minute we stepped through the door.

Now 83 years old, the mama-san moved to Osaka from her native Gumna prefecture when she got married. Her husband is sadly no longer with us, but she has children in the area, and of course the coffee shop. A business that’s an extension of her personality, and as such it felt very much a part of the past as well as the present. An element that was encapsulated the moment we heard the distinctive ring of the old rotary phone. A sound and resultant scene that was the icing on the cake of our time there. Or perhaps more appropriately, the thickly spread butter on top of our toast.

Oh, and it turns out the old barber shop that was so integral to our visit has been closed for a staggering 31 years.