Photography

Feb 10 2023 10 Comments

The not quite so sad end of a little Tokyo bar

There are no shortage of Tokyo bars and homes on these pages that have sadly ceased to exist, and whether it be the emptiness of the building left behind, or its complete demolition, they never fail to have an impact, no matter how inevitable such changes always are. The lovely little bar below, on the other hand, is a slightly different story. Or at least I’m pretty sure it is, and so that’s the version I’m content to go along with.

A friend and I drank there in 2019, and the mama-san was happy to serve us drinks and cook whatever was in her fridge. Her house next door fridge that is, as after nearly 45 years in operation, there wasn’t much of a business left. Instead, it was more just a place where you were cheerfully served if you turned up, but if nobody did, it quite clearly didn’t matter in the slightest. A situation very much like this bar once run by a 93-year-old.

And so we had a few beers, a bit of food was rustled up, and it was a genuinely fun experience. But then, some time between our visit and the end of the following year, the bar was demolished, along with the house next door.

In their place, however, is now a shiny new home. One in which the mama-san lives, as I’m fairly sure I saw her through the window.

Feb 07 2023 8 Comments

A lovely old Tokyo bicycle shop

It’s easy to think you know Tokyo really well. At least certain parts of it, anyway. But the city has a wonderful habit of conjuring up surprises when you least expect it. Like the lovely old bicycle shop below, which happened to be just round a corner that for some reason or other I’d never taken before.

Feb 03 2023 18 Comments

Shinjuku scenes from the 21st century

The vast majority of my photos tend to be taken in the older, eastern areas of Tokyo. Places that in many respects are a world away from the usual image of the city, and yet at the same time they are just as much (if indeed not more) a part of the capital as the bright lights and bustling streets it’s more famous for. The one exception, however, has been Shinjuku. An area that despite its changes and my shifting interests, has remained a firm favourite.

Being a popular entertainment hub, Shinjuku has no shortage of fancy shops and the like, but there’s also so much more. It’s intimate as well as crowded, rough and ready but also refined, plus more than anything, it’s simply interesting, with similarly interesting people. A location that has also been more on my mind of late, as the photobook my friend Giovanni and I recently released (now available to buy here), contains half a dozen photos I took there over the years. Hence this post with those six pictures included.

The book is a visual conversation, so the images were chosen as a response to the previous photo rather than simply picking out some favourites like I’ve done here. The former was often incredibly difficult, but somewhat surprisingly, so was whittling down a set from the many Shinjuku pictures I have. Below then are the ones I settled on. Some inclusions I’ll no doubt question the moment this is posted, along with likely failing to understand why I left one or two others out. But either way, as a whole I still feel they represent a part of Tokyo that has changed enormously, and yet at the same time has barely changed at all.

Jan 31 2023 8 Comments

Not the most typical Tokyo salaryman sighting

The suit and general appearance were all fairly standard Tokyo salaryman, but the location and little details were altogether quite different.

Jan 27 2023 6 Comments

From Tokyo bar, to home, to abandoned

The stark contrast of a little bar or business that has become a car park is always shocking, but the transition from a home to merely an empty building is no less moving. In fact it probably has even more impact, as it’s the cycle of life made tangible rather than something that’s mostly tucked away in the back of our minds.

Jan 24 2023 10 Comments

Scenes from a faded Japanese hot spring resort

Kinugawa Onsen a few hours north of Tokyo is in many ways the perfect symbol of Japan’s numerous old resort towns. Faded, down-at-heel places whose best days are long gone and slow decline is now the harsh and very visible reality.

Coming of age as it were during the mass tourism boom of the 1950s and 60s, the success of those times in many ways led to Kinugawa’s subsequent downfall, as it resulted in more, and ever bigger hotels, culminating in the construction madness of the bubble years. The inevitable bursting of said bubble in the early 90s, however, promptly put an end to such developments, and the area’s visitor numbers peaked around the same time. Since then it’s been a gradual spiral downwards, both in popularity and appearance.

Understandably there’s now a concerted effort to demolish the many hotels that fell foul of changing times and trends, but the damage can’t be so easily undone, as whatever beauty the river and surrounding landscape once possessed has long since been lost. Local businesses have also suffered, with many now no more, as the former white-walled behemoths that dominate the town catered to their customers’ every need, meaning guests didn’t have to leave the premises.

Several decades after its peak then, here are some photos of Kinugawa Onsen at the end of 2022. A fascinating place in so many ways, but none of them are what the money men would have hoped for when they set out about changing it all those years ago.

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