Japanese food is much praised both at home and abroad — a tribute that most of the time is very much warranted too. But good food needs equally good people preparing it, and doing so can clearly be hard work, particularly so in decidedly less than ideal surroundings.
Shinjuku faces
The old, the modern and the famous.
Last train, last stop and last asleep
Still fast asleep at the last stop, on the last train, this weary traveller may not have known where he was, let alone the time, but at least the impeccably turned out platform attendant was there to ever so gently ease him out of his slumber.
An old sweet shop in an old part of Tokyo
Japan may well have suffered several decades of economic stagnation, but Tokyo is still a city very much in flux, with buildings both big and small going up and down at an almost dizzying pace. A transformation generally done in the name of progress, but which at the same time often destroys a good deal of the city’s character — even its soul if one is inclined to get a little sentimental about such things.
The wonderfully archaic Tsukiji fish market will soon move to new premises, and Kabukicho, the capital’s famous red light district, is steadily undergoing massive changes — with far more dramatic ones already being put forward in the run-up to the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. A ‘clean-up’ that some fear will also include Golden Gai, potentially depriving the city of another of its icons, not to mention a link to the past.
But that’s not to say that other old, practically untouched pockets of Tokyo don’t exit, because they do. Like this fabulously dated sweet shop for example. A business that with a bit of luck will live on for as long as its owner does, although the chances of it going on to outlive him are sadly next to none.
Japanese (want to) haves and have-nots?
Spectacularly drunk on Tokyo’s streets
Big nights out are a daily option in Tokyo. As are benders of truly epic proportions. The only problem, however, is that there’s almost always a price to pay, and sometimes a hefty one.