This old school Chinese restaurant is ordinary in every way. The signage, red countered interior, and the ageing couple diligently working away just like they have done for decades. None of it is unusual or especially memorable. And yet at the same time, there’s so much beauty to be found there, along with that simple pleasure of a simple, everyday experience.
The contrast of Osaka’s modern skyline and the lives lived below it
Most of my photos focus on the older parts of Tokyo. The areas that are changing rapidly, and yet at the same time still contain so much of the past. A feature of the city I find infinitely fascinating, but obviously it’s not something unique to the capital, so below then are photos on a similar theme taken during a recent stay in Osaka.
All of them were shot in Nishinari ward, which is well known as the city’s most neglected district. An aspect that’s very obvious due to the many dilapidated structures, along with a large day labourer population. A sprawling neighbourhood that feels very much like Japan, and yet at the same time still very different from even the corresponding part of Tokyo.
It’s a place that for want of a better description feels real. Genuine too when compared to the shiny glass buildings and fancy shops that increasingly make up so much of modern Japan. Also, and much more importantly, genuine in regards the people. There’s an openness on the streets and in the many little bars, eateries and coffee shops, with no need at all for any airs and graces, let alone fake politeness. Many of the residents most definitely don’t have much, but they do at least have the benefit of being able to be themselves, something that’s arguably not all that common in Japan. At least not in public, anyway.
All that said, I was only a visitor, so these are just thoughts from my time staying there. Thoughts I can hopefully either confirm or dispel during future visits. Trips that need to be made sooner rather than later, as just like the photos show, modern Osaka is visibly on the march.
A stunning old Tokyo restaurant sign
There is no shortage of stunning and wonderfully dated old shop signs in Tokyo. In fact, there are some I like so much that I’ve created a series dedicated to them on my portfolio site. And yet even in such rarefied company, the peeling and prominent name above this restaurant still stands out.
A striking and dilapidated old Japanese shopping street
Old and faded Japanese shopping streets aren’t uncommon. Their sights, entrances and general dilapidation also make them as fascinating as they are faded, but this particular covered arcade in Hyogo prefecture is something else altogether.
Running alongside a newer, and far busier location, its best days are very much long gone, with only a small number of stores remaining. That said, a few spots have been stripped out and reopened as new concerns catering to a younger, more underground crowd, which will hopefully help preserve the surroundings. A truly tiny but also regularly booked music venue being one such example. Only time will tell as far as that goes, but for now at least, the shutters, decay and stretches of darkness make it a truly unique location.
Old and traditional Kyoto in the rain
Last week I was in Japan’s Kansai region to explore and photograph Osaka again, along with a brief hop over to Hyogo prefecture. There was, however, also time for a short evening stroll in Kyoto, and despite the weather not being the best, we did manage to see a little of the old and traditional in some of the city’s lesser known areas. So here then is a small series of photos from the country’s former capital.
Beautifully overgrown Tokyo businesses
With rainy season now upon us, the increasing heat and humidity, along with the aforementioned wet weather, means Tokyo’s already flourishing foliage is set to become even more lush and vibrant. Colours that are sometimes as amazing as the ability of trees and bushes to take over a building, and in a few cases almost become the building. So here then are some such structures from over the years. A few of which I’ve shown before. Each one is a businesses of some kind — or at least was a businesses back in the day. All of them, however, remain a treat to regularly revisit.