Away from the nation’s more populous cities, Japan can be a very different place indeed. Changing demographics and increasing urban migration mean that many smaller, and especially rural settlements, are now faded reminders of a far more optimistic past.
I’ve documented several such places before, but my favourites, at least in regards photographic results, are a meander along the length of a now disused train line, and this exploration of the abandoned buildings of a slowly dying resort town.
The (pre-pandemic) photos below, however, are somewhat different — mainly because the location itself, Takada, is quite different. Different in the sense that it has a colossal 16 kilometres of old style covered walkways. Sheltered paths that are still a fairly common sight in Japan’s snow country, but not at all common in regards such extraordinary distances.
Located in Niigata Prefecture, Takada gained modern town status way back in 1889, and then city designation a couple of decades later in 1911. But things have changed a lot since then, and in 1971, it combined with neighbouring Naoetsu to become simply a part of the newly created city of Joetsu.
Yet despite losing a distinct element of its identity, Takada is still truly distinct in appearance. Those many kilometres of covered walkways may well be better at sheltering pedestrians from snow rather than pouring rain, but they look absolutely wonderful, especially as most of the buildings have retained their traditional wooden frames and exteriors. Add to that the many years of decline, and it’s a truly fascinating area to explore. One that, like all such places, is forever tied to a more prosperous past. As such, a sadness of sorts pervades almost everything, and yet at the same time, life goes on as it always has — there’s just less of it to see that’s all.
Pamela says
Hi I’ve been following you for the longest time after finding your work on Instagram. I love painting old Japanese store fronts like this so you have totally made my day! Would you mind if I painted some of them? Thank you!
Lee says
Thank you, that’s very nice to hear. And yes, be my guest. Paint whichever ones you want.
Stephan says
This is such a cool series. I guess it is sad but think this isn’t only a problem Japan is dealing with I’ve seen it happening in many countries.
Lee says
Thank you. Yes, that’s very true. On the positive side, places like this in Japan generally don’t suffer a lot of the problems associated with decline, loss of jobs etc. that are so often seen elsewhere.
Jenn says
I love the pic with the students. They remind of those walking past that freaky painted house you posted! 🙂
Lee says
Haha, good call. Similar hats and similar surprise!
Rohan Gillett says
Very nice pics Lee! But the more and more pictures I see of the country, the more and more I get convinced of one thing. Urban planning is not Japan’s strong suit. Everything always seems to be done slapdash.
Lee says
Thanks a lot. Yes, it really is. No doubt about it. Although compared to a lot of places, these are relatively uniform in their appearance.
Over time I’ve gone from accepting it as the norm, to appreciating it for what it is. Invariably not beautiful in a more formal sense, but it can create a beauty all its own. Or at least a certain charm.
John says
The old guy is still happy living there! 🙂
Lee says
Yes, he did seem very happy indeed. It was a lousy day too, so to see his big smile was doubly lovely.
cdilla says
What treasures you are sharing with us today!
More detail than I could work through in a week.
The schoolkids with their randoseru sauntering/striding/walkingwalking past the grating embossed with iron sakura blossoms, the Maruyama fish shop with the ferocious squid eyes, the unusual Cigerattes spelling, the several colourful manhole and utility covers, the many shades of rust in rain, the hundred daikon drying, the man-in-a-hat roadsign that always makes me smile when I see it.
My favourite? At the moment it has to be the crooked house with the melting roof and tanoy on the corner. I wonder what it broadcasts? Radio calisthenics perhaps?
Lee says
Glad to hear you enjoyed it. Needless to say we thoroughly enjoyed the walk and exploration despite the weather. There was just so much to take in and enjoy.
That house is really quite something eh? I’d like to know if it’s still lived in, and if so, what it looks like inside.
The tannoy, I assume, is to give out the local daily announcements. General city stuff, chimes at certain times of day, but also warnings if necessary in regards the likes of earthquakes, tsunamis and typhoons. In a similar vein, they were, and are be used at the moment to give out suggested behaviour to contain the coronavirus. That said; during the state of emergency I was cycling though a park near home and the announcement was urging people to only go out for exercise, not to gather in groups and not to picnic in local parks.
The park was absolutely packed with people picnicking and kids playing together…