Tokyo’s modern and often horrendously busy train stations are marvels of both design and staff dedication. Structures that are beautifully efficient, and efficiently brutal.
Move out of the city, however, and the experience can be a very different one. In Hokkaido, for example, there is the calming quiet of passenger-less stations, along with the decaying beauty of long-abandoned lines. Plus, out in Niigata, there is Tsutsuishi, which must surely be Japan’s most dystopian train station.
First built in 1912, it was originally above ground, but all that changed when the new station opened in 1969. Now it’s 40 metres below the surface, and the only way to access the 2 platforms is by navigating several damp tunnels and their 290 steps. A trek Tsutsuishi’s 25 or so daily passengers have to make without any aid whatsoever, as there are no lifts or escalators.
But once down at platform level, there are at least a couple of waiting rooms.
Wonderfully bleak and oddly eerie spaces, they are made more unusual by the station’s jarring announcements.
Even on a hot, June day, these stark waiting areas were decidedly chilly, so what the temperatures must be like during the region’s long, bitterly cold winters really doesn’t bear thinking about. And if that wasn’t enough, the air pressure created by passing trains can cause hurricane-like winds — hence the metal doors.
So, needless to say, being out on the platform isn’t any better. It’s darker, colder, and the sense of being somewhere almost prison-like is inescapable.
But it’s nothing of the sort of course. Rather, it’s a unique, genuinely interesting complex. One so fascinating to explore in fact, that returning to the surface was somewhat disappointing.
The full set of these photos can be seen at my portfolio site, here: https://leechapman.photos/the-dystopian.
Denton says
Oh man this is so cool! I wouldn’t wanna go there everyday but I’d love to visit. In summer! 🙂
Lee says
It really is special. Yeah, visiting was great, but not somewhere I’d want to use for my daily commute…
Julien says
No idea there would be stations like that in Niigata. I mean, it’s inaka, not like they are lacking space.
For a moment I thought I was seeing a fallout shelter.
Lee says
I know eh? There are a few. In Gumna too. But why I don’t know. But yeah, it really does have that look, doesn’t it? Really wanted to get a photograph of someone in there, so very happy I did.
scruffy says
Claustrophobic.
Lee says
Yeah, definitely an element of that about it.
john says
The sounds niblets reminded me of early OMD..
so a slightly appropriate https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lERdBd8slD0 (Of all the things we’ve made) with a train theme.
Lee says
Nice. Cheers! Haven’t heard that in a long, long time. A very welcome (and appropriate) reminder.
cdilla says
The grey stone and green moss theme matches the book I started re-reading yesterday (Gormenghast), though the overall feeling of this set of photographs is that of a cold war era nuclear shelter.
It’s funny how such abandoned, and almost abandoned, places give you an empty tingling in the bones. Something your photographs convey very well.
My favourite is the lady on the train who looks so delighted to be in shot 🙂
Lee says
It reminded me a little bit of John Hurt’s 1984. A genuinely interesting place to walk around.
Thank you. That’s very good to hear. Means I’m doing something right, which is very encouraging.
Haha, she was a little surprised. Initially by the station I think, and then by someone in there there taking photos — of her!
David Lowe says
Another mole station! Though looks to be an improvement on the 486 steps at Doai 🙂
Lee says
Yeah, another treat!
I enjoyed Doai, but this was much more special. After seeing photos of the waiting rooms I had to go, and they didn’t disappoint at all. A genuinely unique place.
Dora Vale says
These are great! Thank you for posting.
But I would love to listen to the audio files. Is it just me, or are they out of action for everyone? It’s the same on audioBoom.
Lee says
Thanks!
They are working fine this end. May have just been a slight glitch.
Dora Vale says
I think it must have been Chrome – tried it on Firefox and it worked fine.
If you have any more audio clips of the station I would love to hear them.
What a fantastic place! Thanks for sharing.
Lee says
Excellent. Good to know.
Yeah, it really is. I thoroughly enjoyed wandering the tunnels and spending time in the waiting rooms. No other recordings though I’m afraid. Apart from those announcements, it was completely silent.
kikuhouse (Joanna) says
Thanks for including the audio clips – it really envelops us in the experience!
Lee says
You are very welcome. Glad they added to the photos. I really wanted to try and replicate the experience as much as possible. Without smell-O-vision though, the real, musty environment can never be truly reproduced!
arma says
Silent Hill:The Room comes to mind,it has a section similar to this,probably an inspiration.
Lee says
Ah, ok. Could well be. A visit definitely leaves a strong impression.
Xabi Sierra says
Really impresses Lee, both photography and audio. They want to see beyond..
Lee says
Thank you very much.