The standard image of Tokyo as a busy, sprawling concrete mass is an accurate one. It really does feel like the city goes on forever, and the sometimes monstrous number of people can be overwhelming to say the least. But head west, a long way west, and the suburbs eventually make way for something very different — a part of the capital that is not only quiet, but also boasts mountains, abandoned cable cars, a disused railway line and even a bar owner in her 90s who still opens for business on a daily basis. An area where, as the latter suggests, the country’s ageing population is more pronounced. So in many ways, the sight of an elderly woodcutter is more expected than that common symbol of Tokyo, the salaryman.